Glossary of Terms
Antique & Vintage Jewellery Glossary
A Comprehensive Collector’s Reference
Understanding the language of antique and vintage jewellery is key to recognising quality, craftsmanship, and historical significance. This glossary brings together essential terms spanning materials, techniques, periods, and forms—designed to support both collectors and the curious.
A
Acrostic Jewellery
Jewellery where the first letters of gemstones spell a word (e.g. REGARD: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond).
Aigrette
A hair ornament or brooch resembling a feather plume, popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Alexandrite
A rare gemstone known for colour change—green in daylight, red under artificial light.
Alloy
A mixture of metals used to improve strength, durability, or colour.
Amethyst
A purple variety of quartz, widely used in Georgian and Victorian jewellery.
Antique Jewellery
Jewellery over 100 years old.
Art Deco Jewellery
1920s–30s jewellery with geometric, symmetrical designs.
Art Nouveau Jewellery
Late 19th-century jewellery with flowing, nature-inspired forms.
Assay Office
An institution that tests and hallmarks precious metals.
Assay Mark
A stamp verifying metal purity.
B
Baguette Cut
Rectangular step-cut gemstone.
Bail
The loop that attaches a pendant to a chain.
Bar Brooch
A straight, horizontal brooch popular in the Edwardian era.
Baroque Pearl
An irregularly shaped pearl.
Bead Setting
Small beads of metal secure a gemstone in place.
Bezel Setting
A metal rim surrounds a gemstone.
Blackamoor
Jewellery featuring stylised figures, often carved and set with gemstones.
Book Chain
Victorian chain with flat, rectangular links.
Box Clasp
A clasp where a tab fits into a decorative box mechanism.
Briolette Cut
A teardrop-shaped gemstone with triangular facets.
C
Cabochon
A polished, unfaceted gemstone.
Cameo
A carved relief image, often in shell.
Cannetille
Fine gold wirework decoration.
Carat (Gemstone Weight)
0.2 grams per carat.
Carat (Gold Purity)
Measure of gold purity (e.g. 18K).
Cartouche
A decorative frame or panel for inscriptions.
Chain Maille
Interlinked metal rings forming flexible jewellery.
Champlevé Enamel
Enamel applied into recessed areas.
Chandelier Earrings
Multi-tiered drop earrings.
Chatelaine
A decorative chain worn at the waist holding tools or accessories.
Chasing
Surface decoration hammered into metal.
Citrine
Yellow quartz gemstone.
Claw Setting
Prongs hold a gemstone.
Gemstone backed with metal.
Cluster Ring
A central stone surrounded by smaller stones.
Collet Setting
Early closed-back gemstone setting.
Costume Jewellery
Jewellery made from non-precious materials.
Curb Chain
Flattened interlocking links.
D
Demi-Parure
A partial jewellery set.
Diamond Paste
Glass imitation diamonds.
Dog Clip Clasp
Spring-loaded clasp shaped like a dog clip.
Dormeuse Earrings
Comfortable drop earrings designed for sleeping.
Doublet
A gemstone made of two fused layers.
D
Edwardian Jewellery
Delicate platinum jewellery (c.1901–1915).
Electroplating
Applying metal coating via electricity.
Enamel
Fused glass decoration on metal.
Engraving
Cutting designs into metal.
Estate Jewellery
Previously owned jewellery.
Etruscan Revival
19th-century style inspired by ancient Etruscan designs.
F
Facet
Flat surface on a cut gemstone.
Glazed ceramic material.
Fede Ring
Hands clasping motif symbolising love.
Filigree
Delicate metal wirework.
Foil-Backed Gemstone
Foil enhances gemstone brilliance.
French Jet
Black glass used in mourning jewellery.
G
Gallery (Ring)
Decorative side structure beneath a gemstone.
Garnet
Deep red gemstone common in Victorian jewellery.
Georgian Jewellery
1714–1837, handcrafted pieces.
Gilding
Applying a thin gold layer.
Girandole Earrings
Three-drop earrings.
Gold-Filled
Thick gold layer bonded to base metal.
Granulation
Tiny gold beads fused onto a surface.
Guilloché Enamel
Engine-turned patterns under enamel.
H
Hair Jewellery
Jewellery incorporating human hair.
Hallmarks
Official metal stamps.
Halo Setting
Central stone surrounded by smaller stones.
Hardstone
Semi-precious carved stone.
I
Inclusion
Internal flaw in a gemstone.
Intaglio
Carved gemstone design engraved inward.
J
Japanning
Black lacquer finish.
Jet
Fossilised wood used in mourning jewellery.
K
Karats (K)
Gold purity scale.
L
Labradorite
Gemstone with iridescent effect.
Lavalier Necklace
Pendant necklace style.
Locket
Hinged pendant for keepsakes.
Lost Wax Casting
Casting technique using wax models.
M
Marcasite
Iron pyrite used decoratively.
Micro-Mosaic
Tiny glass tesserae forming images.
Milgrain
Beaded edge detail.
Mine Cut Diamond
Early cushion-shaped diamond cut.
Mizpah Ring
Token of love or separation.
Mourning Jewellery
Jewellery commemorating the deceased.
N
Navette
Marquise-shaped design.
Niello
Black metallic inlay.
O
Old European Cut
Early round diamond cut.
Old Mine Cut
Pre-modern cushion diamond cut.
Opal
Iridescent gemstone.
Ormolu
Gilt bronze.
P
Parure
Full jewellery set.
Paste Jewellery
Glass imitation gemstones.
Patina
Surface ageing.
Closely set small stones.
Pear Cut
Teardrop gemstone shape.
Peridot
Green gemstone.
Pinchbeck
Gold-like alloy.
Plique-à-Jour Enamel
Translucent enamel without backing.
Platinum
Durable white precious metal.
Posy Ring
Ring engraved with a romantic phrase.
Q
Quartz
Common gemstone family.
R
Repoussé
Metal hammered from reverse.
Retro Jewellery
1940s bold jewellery style.
Rivière Necklace
Graduated gemstone necklace.
Rose Cut Diamond
Flat-backed domed diamond.
S
Sautoir
Long necklace.
Beetle motif.
Seed Pearl
Tiny natural pearl.
Engraved crest ring.
Silver Gilt (Vermeil)
Gold-plated silver.
Solitaire Ring
Single gemstone ring.
Spinel
Gemstone often mistaken for ruby.
Step Cut
Parallel-faceted gemstone cut.
T
Table Cut Diamond
Early flat-topped diamond cut.
Tennis Bracelet
Line of diamonds or gemstones.
Torsade
Twisted strands necklace.
Tourmaline
Multi-coloured gemstone.
U
Undergallery
Hidden structure beneath a setting.
V
Vermeil
Gold-plated silver.
Victorian Jewellery
1837–1901 jewellery styles.
Vintage Jewellery
20–99 years old.
W
Whitby Jet
Jet from Whitby, England.
Wirework
Jewellery made from twisted wire.
Y
Yellow Gold
Traditional gold alloy.
Z
Zircon
Natural gemstone (not cubic zirconia).
This antique jewellery glossary has been carefully compiled to support collectors, researchers, and enthusiasts searching for terms related to antique and vintage jewellery. From Georgian jewellery and Victorian mourning pieces to Art Deco designs and gemstone cuts, this guide is designed to be a lasting reference.